Bedroom sizes — what actually fits, from 10×10 to 14×16

The three numbers that decide it

The bed is bigger than the mattress. Frame adds 2–5″ per axis: a queen plans at ≈65 × 85, a king at ≈81 × 85, a full at ≈58 × 80.
Each open side needs 24–30″ — to walk, to make the bed, to open a nightstand drawer. 36″ where a side is the main path.
A dresser costs its depth plus 36″ of standing room — a 20″-deep dresser commits 56″ of the wall it faces.

Room by room, honestly

These verdicts are pure wall arithmetic — closets, windows, and the door swing decide the real answer, which is exactly what placing it on your actual plan checks.

Room	Largest bed that works	What the math says
10 × 10	Full	full leaves ~31″ per side; a queen drops that to ~27″ with no wall left for a dresser beside it
10 × 12	Queen	the standard secondary bedroom: queen on the 10′ wall, dresser opposite the foot
11 × 13	Queen, king tight	queen plus dresser and a chair; a king works only with clear side walls
12 × 12	King — conditionally	~31″ per side if nothing else lives on those walls; the door swing is the judge
12 × 14	King	king plus dresser without squeezing the walkways
13 × 15 +	King + extras	primary-suite territory: bench at the foot, chair, double dressers

The worked example: king in a 12 × 12

A king with frame is ≈81″ wide on a 144″ wall — 63″ left, a comfortable ~31″ per side. But add a 20″-deep dresser and its 36″ of standing room to one side wall and you've committed 56″ of it: the bed slides off-center, one side drops to the minimum, and whether the door still opens decides everything. That's a lot of arithmetic for one corner of one room — which is why Poché draws it on your plan and flags what pinches.

Skip the arithmetic.

Upload your plan, drop a king with real frame dims into the actual room, and watch the clearance halos do the math.

Try it on your plan →

More field guides All guides Bed sizes & clearances → Rug sizes →